Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Wash 

Introduction:
The distressed jeans that we see around everywhere undergo a wide variety of wet as well as dry treatments to get the desired effects. Destroying denims is as much an art as it is a technique. The direction in fashion is varied across all areas particularly in denim dry process, whether worn or torn to wrinkled or pressed; these trends can appeal to a wide range of consumers. These can be achieved by variety of denim dry processing techniques which are mainly dependant on physical and on chemical abrasion of the surface dye there by producing different wash-down looks to the denim fabrics. Hot spots are heavy/intense area on thigh or knee, which is made purposely to create used-look & on knee area if any whiskers lines are there, called knee star.[1]

Different types of Dry process for Denim Wash 

Whiskering: 
whiskers are one of the most important design of a used look garment. The idea of whiskers is taken from the worn out lines and impression patterns generated by natural wearing on hips and front thigh area. On old jeans, a number of patterns can be finding consequential to fabric, body shape of user or sitting posture. It is also known as Cat's Whisker.[2]

Picture: Whiskers on Jeans

Whiskering Process: 
Various methods are designed to create this impression on jeans. Such as:-

• Mostly rubber balloons are available with different pattern designs. Garments are mounted on balloons and filled with air to get impressions of whiskers. Garment is scrubbed over pattern carefully with sand paper on engraved pattern lines. This operation requires high skilled labor and who can handle uniformity and sequence in whisker line. Fabric may damage during rubbing if care is not taken. This method is famous for high quality and cost effectiveness. 

Picture: Producing Wiskering Effect on Denim

• Sometimes separate patterns are made and fixed on balloons to make mustaches. These patterns are made of thin rubber sheets and electric wires or rubber cords and pasted on balloons for pattern lines. Thin line patterns are very easy to work in that way but it is not much successful for broad lines.

• Engraved patterns on thick board like hard rubber sheets are widely used for whiskers impression making. This idea is very simple to draw lines on rubber sheets and engrave them with blade. Garment is places on sheet and scrapped on specific area to draw this impression on garment. For its low cost patterns, it is most frequently used in small industries especially where the production is not consistent to style.

Fig: Machines to produce wiskering effect

• In some workshops it is done manually with the help of sharp edge rolled on fine wood sticks of pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution, placement and pattern must be marked on garment, this will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment.[3]

Sand Blasting: 
Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high-speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the effect appearing is very similar to the worn out jeans. Sand blast provides a very uniform result, which cannot be achieved with its alternates. Its specialty is the merging effect that is blended with such a beauty that it has no difference with natural effect.

High pressure of air produces a powerful backward thrust to operator so it is always recommended to fix the gun in appropriate stands rather than placing it on shoulders or using it with bare hands. On some fabrics sand blasting is not successful for it covers the characteristics of fabric. Especially in fabrics, which are famous for slob patterns it flattens the look. Specified areas for sand blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel near bottom or front panel around knee. Some time full body blasting is also done for giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for more real look on front knees or back seat by intense blasting in these areas.[4]

Picture: Sand Blasting effects on Jeans

Procedure of Sand Blasting: 

• Individual garment to be processed is taken on a table.
• Air compressor is started and pressure to be maintained between 3 – 4 kg/sq.cm.
• Air compressor then stores air in the machine cylinder. Aluminum sand or silicon sand, Al2(SiO4)3, is then taken in the chamber of the blasting machine.
• Sand and compressed air are then sprayed over the garments at specific points at 10-200 angle by hand spray pipe. 

Picture: Produce Sand Blasting effect on Jeans

• Sands pass into the machine by regulating system.
• The machine comprises a blasting regulator and a hand regulator to control the amount of sand and compressed air respectively.
• The angle of sand blowing is very important. Higher the blowing angle, higher the fading effect and higher the risk of fabric damage.
• Fading is done on pre-marked areas.
• Sandblasting is a hazardous technique and therefore, the area should be isolated from other working areas.
• Handling of sandblasting gun is risky therefore, operators should use safety equipments like hand gloves, mask and gown. Production/hour/gun varies from 25 – 45 garments depending upon the degree of fading or extent of fading to be attained. 

Picture: Sand-Blasting, Air Compressor with Nozzle

• The faded garments are cleaned by shaking manually. After sandblasting, garments are washed and the technique is being followed may be normal, bleach or bio-stone.[5]

Potassium permanganate spray (P.P Spray): 
Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing about potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans garment with the help of normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for next process. It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are available in market for neutralization process like sodium Meta bisulfate selected on the bases of effect required on blasted area.

Potassium permanganate sprays concentrations ranges from .25 gm per liter to 15.00 grams per liter depending to required results and fabric types. Usually indigo died fabrics are treated with low concentrations whereas Black Sulfur Fabric requires high concentrations to treat with.

Picture: P.P effect on Jeans

Process of P.P Spray: 
1. Potassium permanganate spray in best is done in specific spray booths, where rubber dummies are installed for holding garments. Garments are mounted on the dummies and air is filled so the garment is full fit exposed. Specific dummies are used for different sizes and styles, like for kids, men’s, trousers, jackets, shirts etc. The booths are fitted with proper air exhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment room where the chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers. Potassium permanganate is dissolved in water and the clean air is blown to open. Shower water is further treated with mild quantities of neutralizer before adding to main drain. But where the potassium permanganate spray is used in low concentrations then there is now need to treat shower water. This mild potassium permanganate mixed water is rather useful for water reservoirs to keep the water clean and germs free.

Fig: Before pp spray and after pp spray denim

2. Garments are mounted on air-filled rubber dummies and chemical is sprayed on blasted areas. The variables in spray process are as follows:

• Distance of spray gun to garment: Less distance will give more defined and sharp effect whereas distant spray will result in more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges from one foot to two and a half feet. 

• Air to water ratio of gun: This is to be set very carefully. Low air pressure possibly will through KMnO4 drops on garment resulting in bright white spots whereas high pressure will produce very low bright effect spray effect to areas where it is not required. 

• Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration: This will control the extent of brightness.[6]

Potassium Permanganate Sponging/ Brushing: 
PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than back ground indigo color shade. This can be applied by sponges dipped in to PP Solution & rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet process. This process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape or in the middle of the wash. Doing after enzyme or bleach cycle will give more natural & white effect that doing in rigid. There are many additives can be added in order to achieve desired intensity and look.[7]

In usual, it is done with regular paint brushes or the brushes are modified by cutting hairs in different shapes to produce new styles. Rather towels, sponges, straw bunches or other objects are also used to create effects. What it is seen, is that most merging and beautiful effects are created with towel. Towel dipped in solution are drawn over the garment very lightly. This produces random effect and looks great with dark washes in contrast.[8]

This process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators to execute it followed by immediate neutralization.

Picture: P.P effects on Jeans

Procedure of P.P Sponging/ Brushing: 

• Prepare Potassium Permanganate solution.(P.P 20%,water 80%).
• Take the solution in a tray or bowl.
• Take a rubber board.
• Then take a jeans trouser & place the rubber board inside the leg panel of the trouser.
• Now place the trouser with rubber board on a flat table & sponged or rubbed P.P on apparel surface.
• Then color will faded.
• After this process wet process essential (detergent/bleach/enzyme wash).

Destroyed Denim: 
One of the most popular distressing effects currently , ‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim look unique & used. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of wash process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will look unique & different than others.[9]

Different types of machine used for destroy the garments. Such as- 

• Grinding Machine.
• Emery Cloth.
• Hacksaw Blade.
• Needle.
• Knife etc.

Picture: Destroyed Jeans

Process of Destroyed Denim: 

• We can make holes in jeans by overdoing different methods. The trick is to make the holes look natural. Grind away at the fabric slowly. Try not to localize the worn area, spread it with diminishing wear the further we get from the intended hole. 

Picture: Process of Destroyed Jeans

• The area around the hole should be worn out as well as bleached to further blend the hole with the surrounding fabric. "Finish" the edges with a pumice stone or sandpaper dampened in bleach. Also dampening a sponge with bleach and applying it to the outer edges of the hole will add to the natural worn look. 

• Ripped jeans are a bit different. The rip is not necessarily from wear, and should not look the same as a worn out hole. 

• It is important that what types of look we want to see on our denim. It is recommend to use a sharp pocket knife. Be careful, they are very sharp. Rub the blade of the knife perpendicular to the line of the rip that we want. Continue until we create a slit, and then fray the edges, exposing the threads that are perpendicular to the rip. Do this until the hole is the size that we want and the edges are fuzzy. A wash and a dry will further mess up the edge. To some extent this will control further fraying. 

• To reinforce this newly created hole, turn your pants inside out and place an adequately cut piece of fabric around it and sew it. An iron on will work as well, but the stitching, done either by hand or with a sewing machine, will make it look much better. 

• It is preferred that not too many holes, 3 to 5 should be enough. The current trend, however, seems to be for smaller holes.[10]

The scope of denim dry process is very broad. Only innovative products will be able to open up new markets and new horizons for denim industry. To achieve this it is essential to invest in further research and development. Globalization has opened the door to competition at the highest level. Every industry should now produce products that are best in terms of quality and price. Customers today have a wide range of choices and the one who produces the best quality at a high competitive price will survive and prosper. 

What is Denim? 

A popular conception of the etymology of the word denim is that it is a contraction or derivative of the French term, serge de Nîmes. Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans," though "jean" then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile; the contemporary use of jean comes from the French word for Genoa, Italy (Gênes), from which the first denim trousers were made.

Denim is a type of cotton textile known for its use in blue jeans and other clothing. It uses a sturdy twill weave with a characteristic diagonal ribbing. Originally used for workmen's clothes, denim is now ubiquitous and has even entered the world of high fashion. Nearly everyone has at least one garment made of this fabric in the closet these days.

Fashion is today incomplete without denim. Denim comes in all forms, looks and washes to match with every dress . It would be difficult to believe that the same denim was originally employed in clothing for the pants and overalls worn by miners on the west coast(US). A number of technological factors have contributed to making denim the fashion icon that it is today – including vast improvements in spinning, weaving, finishing etc.

Types of Denim 
While the original denim was a 100% cotton serge material, you can now get it in a variety of materials, including blends that give you the same wonderful look of 100% cotton denim with some great additional features. Denim’s unique look comes from the rich indigo blue in one shade or another woven together with white threads to give the “depth” that people associate with denim. Today, some denims no longer have indigo, but other colors with the white opposing threads, producing denims in a rainbow of shades.

Types of Denim are given below: 

1. Dry Denim
2. Selvage Denim
3. Stretch Denim
4. Poly Denim
5. Ramie Cotton Denim

a) Dry Denim 
Dry or raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Most denim is washed after being crafted into an article of clothing in order to make it softer and to eliminate any shrinkage which could cause an item to not fit after the owner washes it. In addition to being washed, nondry denim is sometimes artificially "distressed" to achieve a worn-in look. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to factory distressed denim. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim. To facilitate the natural distressing process, some wearers of dry denim will often abstain from washing their jeans for more than six months though it is not a necessity for fading. Predominantly found in premium denim lines, dry denim represents a small niche in the overall market.

Dry or raw denim

b) Selvage Denim 
Selvage denim (also called selvedge denim) is a type of denim which forms a clean natural edge that does not unravel. It is commonly presented in the unwashed or raw state. Typically, the selvage edges will be located along the out seam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn. Although selvage denim is not completely synonymous with unwashed denim, the presence of selvage typically implies that the denim used is a higher quality. The word "selvage" comes from the phrase "selfedge" and denotes denim made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread (the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this “self-edge” or Selvage. Selvage is desirable because the edge can’t fray like lower grade denims that have separate wefts which leave an open edge that must be stitched. Shuttle looming is a more time-consuming weaving process that produces denim of a tighter weave resulting in a heavier weight fabric that lasts. Shuttle looms weave a narrower piece of fabric, and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximize yield, traditional jean makers use the fabric all the way to the selvage edge. When the cuff is turned up the two selvage edges, where the denim is sewn together, can be seen. The selvage edge is usually stitched with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow, and red (red is the most common). Fabric mills used these colors to differentiate between fabrics.

Selvage denim

c) Stretch Denim 
It is usually about 98% cotton and 2% Spandex for a bit of that forgiving stretch we all love. This blend gives you wonderful ease of movement and at the same time some support for those “trouble spots” you aren’t so fond of around the hips or thighs. Stretch denim jeans are one of the fastest growing segments of the women’s market for jeans manufacturers.

Stretch Denim

d) Poly Denim 
It is the blends that appeal to those who like the look of denim but prefer polyester blends that wash and dry quickly and are lighter weight and a bit dressier. These usually appeal to a slightly older market, but are also finding favor for pantsuits, etc. when the look is meant to be “dressy but casual.”

Poly Denim

e) Ramie Cotton Denim 
It is the blends that are found in a variety of combinations, with a wide price variance. Ramie is a plant fiber usually added because it reduces wrinkling and adds a silky luster to the fabric. It isn’t as strong as cotton, however, so it has to be blended with this stronger material in order to stand up as a denim material.

Process Flow Chart of Textile Manufacturing 

Spinning 
↓
Weaving 
↓
Dyeing +Printing+ Finishing
↓
Garments Manufacturing 

Flow Chart of Weaving 

Yarn from spinning section
↓
Doubling and Twisting 
↓
Winding 
↓
Creeling
↓
Warping
↓
Sizing
↓
Winding on weavers beam
↓
Weaving 


Flow Chart of Dyeing 

Inspection of grey cloth
↓
Stitching 
↓
Cropping
↓
Brushing
↓
Singeing 
↓
Desizing 
↓
Scouring
↓
Bleaching 
↓
Souring
↓
Washing
↓
Drying
↓
Mercerizing
↓
Dyeing 
↓
Aftertreatment
↓
Finishing 
↓
Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Baling

Flow Chart of Printing 

Inspection of grey cloth
↓
Stitching 
↓
Cropping
↓
Brushing
↓
Singeing 
↓
Desizing 
↓
Scouring
↓
Bleaching 
↓
Souring
↓
Washing
↓
Drying
↓
Mercerizing
↓
Printing 
↓ 
Aftertreatment
↓
Finishing 
↓
Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Baling 

Flow Chart of  Garment Manufacturing

Design / Sketch

↓

Pattern Design

↓

Sample Making

↓

Production Pattern

↓

Grading

↓

Marker Making

↓

Spreading

↓

Cutting

↓

Sorting/Bundling

↓

Sewing/Assembling

↓

Inspection

↓

Pressing/ Finishing

↓

Final Inspection

↓

Packing

↓

Despatch

Carding Machine:

Background of Carding Machine:

In 1748 Lewis Paul of Birmingham, England invented the hand driven carding machine . The name card is derived from the latin “Carduus. It mans thistle, the spiked fruit of which was used for plucking fibred apart in earlier time.

The proverbs of experts

• “The card is the heart of the spinning mill”
• ‘Well-carded is half-demonstrate the immense significance of carding for the final result of the spinning operation.

These proverbs demonstrate the immense significance of carding for the final result of the spinning operation. The importance of carding is still greater where new spinning systems are concerned. The considerable influence of the card on yarn quality arises from the very complex series of events in the process itself, and also from the pressure to adopt an extremely high production rate on economic ground.

Carding is defined s the reduction of entangled mass of fibers to filmy web by working them between two closely spaced relatively moving surfaces clothed with sharp points. It is a preliminary process in spun yarn technology just after blow room process.

Recent Developments of Carding Machine: 
In previous discussed that on 1748 Lewis Paul of Birmingham, England invented the hand driven carding machine. This carding machine has been added many values and developed for the requirement of spinners.

The most recent developments are given below: 

• Higher production rate up to 250 kg/hour
• Direct feeding system FBK: Chute feed
• Feed rate control system: CFD(CORRECTA FEED)
• Multiple licker-in system: 3 Licker-in
• Precision Flat Setting System PFS
• Precision Mote Knife Setting System PMS
• Aluminum flats without bolted connection
• Computer control with Touch Screen
• Electronic Flat Measuring System FLATCONTROL TC-NCT
• ON-line nep counting with NEPCONTROL TCC-NCT
• Waste quality measuring with WASTECONTROL TC-WCT
• Digitally controlled, maintenance-free servodrives
• Integrated Carding Grinding system:

                                 IGS Tops
                                 IGS Clssic

• Magnetic flat bar: MAGNA TOP
• Integrated and continuous suction system
• Larger can size: 1000X1200 mm
• Roller doffing system

GRINDING & ITS IMPORTANCE: 
There are three areas in any carding machine. These are:

1. Opening & Cleaning area
2. Carding area
3. Sliver formation

The main segments of carding machine are covered by card clothing. These metal cloth with sharp wire. The wire looses its sharpness due to metal to metal or metal to fibre friction. That’s why it needs re-sharpening. The process re- sharpening he car clothing wire is called

GRINDING 
The performance of card clothing reduces continuously with the processing of materials. The operating life of clothing expressed in terms of the total throughput or material. For the cylinder it normally lies between 300 tons to 600 tons. But it can be higher for some circumstances. The amount of fibre, type of fibre etc. could be the reason. Processing of fibers strongly wears down the teeth-they become rounded of the sliver. The points must therefore be sharpened from time to time, in order to give a better shape to the edges by grinding them. Each grinding operation reduces the number of neps, but the level nerve returns to that prior to the preceding grind.The deterioration in quality from one grinding interval to the nest arises from the fact that the teeth are ground down to successively lower heights, the land at the teet points become stadily larger, and softer metal layers are gradually exposed.

The interval is best selected in dependence upon the nep limit. The doffer clothing works much less than that of the cylinder works. That’s why it should be ground less frequently except when synthetic fibres are being processed.The clothing on the Taker- in should not be ground. It should be renewed after a throughput of 100 tons to 200 tons.

The grinding tools: There are types of grinding tools are commonly in use.

These are:

• The full-width grinding roller
• The traversing grinding disc

Developments in Licker-in Section of Carding Machine : 
Automation, higher production and improved quality of the products are the requisite of any recent developments.

Chute feeding is a recent development in feeding small tufts of cotton fibres directly from blow room to a series of cards, arranged in a circuit through ducts and chutes.

Already we have seen the working of chute feeding system in a third unit..

In this unit, we shall discuss some other developments in licker-in section of carding one by one in the following pages.

The objects of major developments in licker in section that have taken place are

• To improve the opening of tuft at high rate of feed in H. P card.
• To distribute the tufts as evenly as possible on the cylinder.
• To extract the maximum trash with minimum loss of spinnable fibres.

Following are the developments that have taken place in the licker-in section.

1. Card analyser
2. Development in place of mote knife
3. Shirley modification.
4. Fibre retriever.

Card Analyzer or Uni Opener: 
M/S. Nagoya a leading card clothing manufacturer of Japan has offered an evener roller under the trade name of card Analyser. This may also be called as uniopener.

As shown in fig, this evener roller is placed above the licker in. It opens the large unopened tufts released by the licker-in and also remove the excess fibres on the cylinder which is returned to the feed roller again through a space provided between the taker-in and its cover.

Thus it helps to feed the tufts as evenly as possible on the cylinder. It is claimed that the neps formation and the waste are reduced. 

Fig: Card analyzer or uni opener

Development in Place of Mote Knife: 
M/S. Mafatlal Engineering has introduced comb bar and wast control knife attachment in their super card in place of mot knives, as shown in fig.

The arrangement consists of a small diameter cylinder clothed with coarse pitch wire. It replaces conventional mote knives when processing cotton and is positioned directly under the feed plate nose so that the material feed is immediately subjected to carding action.

This opens the cotton and gives high trash yield by permitting the trash to separate from the main stream of fibre in the large free space following the comb bar.

Shirley Modification : 
The essential changes in the cleaning region are: 1. The replacement of conventional mote knives by a deflector plate which is provided under side of the feed plate.

The taker-in grid is replaced by a shorter grid usually 7" long, incorporating 3 bars and the normal perforations. & The Setting between grid and taker-in is made wider than the conventional card.

A safety guard is fitted under the feed plate to cover the exposed portion of the taker-in.

For short staple cotton 8" grid is usually suitable, for medium 7" grid and for long staple cotton 6" grid may be employed.

Advantages of Shirley Modification: 

1. The amount of trash passed on to the cylinder was 31% less than normal resulted in cleaner sliver.
2. The dust generated during carding -is reduced.
3. The life of the metallic clothing is increased due to less trash on cylinder.
4. Increases the trash extraction of 10% with 24% less lint loss than conventional card.

Fiber Retriever : 
This arrangement reduce the loss of spendable fibers.

The nose of the fibre retriever deflects the heavier trash particles, downwards away from the licker-in.

Air drawn in by the fast rotating licker-in is channelled between the buffle plates of fibre retriever, so that the trash particles fall downwards in the up current of air, which detaches any spinnable fibre entangled with the trash particles and carries the good fibres back to the licker-in.

It is claimed that as much as 1 % waste is reduced.

Dust Extraction Systems in Carding 
The high pressure area in the card-at the junction between cylinder and flats at taken-in end-causes ejection of dust over top of the back plate and between the flats.

Another high pressure area- at the junction between the main cylinder and doffer -leads to ejection of dusty air over the doffer

Doffer comb produces air turbulences, which causes dust to rise and at the calender roller the air that is mixed with the cotton in the web is squeezed out, together with dust and fly.

Air escaping into the atmosphere from the high pressure zone carries dust with it and is responsible for most of the dust in the card room.

Modern HP cards are equipped with the dust and fly collector such as shirley pressure point system for extracting the dust, fly and fibres which are collected in a special chamber without rendering unhygienic the atmosphere in the card room.

This has low running cost and useful

1. To prevent the ejection of dust by suitably covering the regions of the machine where the dust is liberated.
2. To move the dust from several forces to a central region from which it can be conveniently removed.

An Exhaust fan, through suitable hoods fitted to critical regions of the card draw off air with fly and dust and after separating these from air, pure air is returned to the department.

The dust passing through the slits between the flats is retained (and then exhausted) by a flexible metal sheet across the full width of flats and placed inside the flat chain to cover about 2/3 of the flats.

The region where flats take position on the bend is also boxed in and exhausted.

A deflector shield is fitted over the doffer comb and extends forward to the calender roller and the region under the calender roll is boxed in to collect the fly that falls from the under side of web.

A screen of perforated metal is fixed in front of the flat cleaning brush to catch any fly released there, and a similar screen is fitted on the coiler where the sliver turns through a right angle to proceed to the can.

The complete shirley pressure point system reduces the dust load in the card room atmosphere by about 90%.

Following are the improved waste removal system of latest high production carding,

Internal Suction System: 
The integral fan for internal suction creates a vacuum with in the outer shell. Thus no dust from the card escapes into. the workroom. the suction is very effective in the removal or fly waste, dust and micro dust which are released during carding. Dust and wastes are removed at all points of occurence, feed, flat entry, flar strips, web delivery and waste chamber under the card. The internal suction operates continuously there by maintaining constant autodymanic conditions in the card.

The exhaust air is conveyed to air conditioning system. The amount of exhaust air is 2300 m3/h per card. Under card waste removal system.: . The under card waste are transferred by programmed periodic blasts of compressed air into the vicinity of a suction hood and collected in the rear most filter of the two filters built into the outer shell. The over card wastes including flat strips are collected in the foremost filter. The intermittently acting central suction system programmed to empty first the foremost filter and then the rear most filter.

The card can be connected to a continuously acting suction system in which case there is no need for fan and filters. manual cleaning of filter is necessary in the absence of central suction system.

Different Working Parts of Carding Machine:

Fig: Fiber preparation

Card Preparation:

Draw Frame :

Sliver Focus:

Modern Carding Machine : 
Conclusion: 
Carding is the process of arranging the fiber in parallel fusion. This is necessary for all staple fiber. Otherwise it would be impossible to produce fine yarn. Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed. The fiber must be in different angle & they must be straight turned. The card is the hard of the spinning mill & well carded is half spun. Demonstrated the immersed significance of carding for the final of opening operation.

Process Flow Chart for Knitting:

Yarn in package form 
↓ 
Place the yarn package in the creel
↓ 
Feeding the yarn 
↓ 
Set the m/c as per design & GSM
↓ 
Knitting 
↓ 
Withdraw the roll fabric and weighting 
↓ 
Roll marking 
↓ 
Inspection
↓ 
Numbering 

Zipper

A fastening device operating by means of two parallel rows of metal or plastic teeth on either side of a closure that are interlocked by a sliding tab. The teeth are carried in two zip fastener tapes that run the length of the zip and which are usually stitched into apparel and other textile products

Types of Zipper: There are many types of zipper, such as,

1. Coil zippers.
2. Invisible zippers.
3. Reverse coil zippers.
4. Metallic zippers.
5. Plastic-molded zippers.
6. Open-ended zippers.
7. Closed-ended zippers.
8. Magnetic zippers.

Different component of a Zipper:

1. Top Tape Extension.
2. Top stop.
3. Slider.
4. Pull Tab.
5. Tape width.
6. Chain.
7. Bottom stop.
8. Bottom tape width.
9. Single tape width.
10. Insertion pin boll.
11. Retainer box.
12. Reinforcement film. 

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COLORFASTNESS : TIPS and TRICKS

A Fabric’s ability to retain its original color is one of the most important properties of a textile product. The colorfastness or color retention is influenced by a number of variables that occur both pre-consumer and post-consumer. Fiber Quality, yarn formation, fabric construction, textile wet processing and consumer practices can all have an influence on the performance characteristics of a fabric. Of these variables, the choices made during textile we processing have the most significant effect on the colorfastness properties. Dye selection is also of the utmost importance. On the other hand consumer practices such as detergent selection and laundering techniques also play a major role in the color retention of a fabric.
The AATCC has over thirty test methods that evaluate colorfastness properties. These include , but are not limited to wash, light , crock, dry cleaning, perspiration, abrasion and heat. The type of product being manufactured determines which types of colorfastness are important and therefore which test methods are relevant. For example, upholstery fabrics must have excellent lightfstness and crock fastness properties, whereas washfastness is important for clothing fabrics.

Our experience at Textile Testing International suggests following as the textile manufacturing process affecting colorfastness;

 Preparation

Preparation is the first stage of textile wet processing. A thorough removal of impurities (waxes, sugers, metals, processing aids, grease, plastic and rubber) always help to achieve optimum dyeing and finishing conditions.

 Dye Selection

Dyeing is the crucial step in determining the colorfastness performance of a fabric. Every dye has a unique colorfastness property. The structure of the dye, the amount of dye, its method of bonding to the fabric and dyeing procedures all contribute to a dye’s performance characteristics. Dye combination in a specific formulation must also be evaluated for their effect on colorfastness.

Finishing

 Generally, resin treated fabrics demonstrate improved color retention to laundering. However, this increase in color retention comes at the expense of reduced physical properties of the fabric. Silicone Softeners incorporated into resin finish bath further improve retention for some fabrics. Also, enzyme treated fabrics show improved ability to maintain their original color and appearance after multiple home launderings.The degree of improvement from any of these finishing techniques is highly dependent on the individual dyes used in a particular formulation to achieve a given shade 

  End User Detergent Selection and Wash Procedures.

The evaluation of the colorfastness properties of a product should reflect the consumer laundry practices. Some fabrics may fade a little when home laundered with standard detergent, but fabrics laundered with detergents containing activated bleach can show significant losses in color strength as determined by the sensitivity of the dye to those detergents. Detergents containing enzymes generally reduce the color change associated with home laundering by decreasing the fuzziness of a fabric’s surface. Consumer practices such as washing cloths inverted, reducing the wash load size, adding softener to the final rinse and reducing the tumble dry time minimize the color loss.